Nicholas & Veronica – Scotland

We met Nicholas & Veronica in Portugal – they were staying with Gus & Sheila when Steve invited himself round to cook NZ lamb on their BBQ. They live in a village called Auchenblae which is about 20 minutes from Edzell. They invited us for dinner on Thursday night and Veronica cooked up a storm. We started with Paneer (Indian cheese) with a mint yoghurt dressing. This was followed by a lamb curry to die for with all the condiments. Dessert was a delicious apple tart with caramel sauce and ice cream. We were in culinary heaven.

Rachel, Nicholas & Veronica’s daughter and her husband Dougal joined us for dinner. Dougal is a game keeper at Drumtochty Castle just outside Auchenblae. The castle is privately owned and used as a wedding venue – it can accommodate 120 people in the castle and surrounding lodges. They also have a church just down the road that can also be used for the wedding ceremony. After dinner Dougal took us for a drive in his land rover to see the property. They raise deer and pheasants for game shooting.

We drove up into the paddock where all the stags were – I have never seen such antlers – they were quite impressive. Dougal shook the feed bag and they came over to the land rover. We also went up to see the hinds and some bambi.

Afterwards Rachel gave us a tour of the castle. It used to be used as a family home by the guy who currently owns it. It is now a wedding venue and accommodation. They had a wedding party coming in on Friday so the tables were set up and the accommodation all ready – we had a look through some of the rooms including the bride’s quarters. To hire the castle is about GBP15,000 and if you include all the food and accommodation it would set you back about GBP30,000 or NZD59,000.

Drumtochty Castle is a neo-gothic style castellated mansion erected in the year 1812 approximately three kilometres northwest of Auchenblae, Aberdeenshire, Scotland. During the Second World War, Drumtochty Castle was bought by the Norwegian government in exile and used as a boarding school for Norwegian children who were refugees from the German occupation of Norway.

On Friday we went back to Nicholas & Veronica’s – they were taking us on a road trip of the area. First stop was another castle – Dunnottar Castle which is near Stonehaven on the North Sea. It was another beautiful day and the scenery was breathtaking. Dunnottar Castle is actually a ruined medieval fortress. The surviving buildings are largely of the 15th and 16th centuries, but the site is believed to have been fortified in the Early Middle Ages. Dunnottar is best known as the place where the Honours of Scotland, the Scottish crown jewels, were hidden from Oliver Cromwell’s invading army in the 17th century.

We then headed to Aberdeen. Veronica said that Aberdeen is a very grey city and on a bad day seems bleak. Nicknames include the Granite City, the Grey City and the Silver City with the Golden Sands. Aberdonians are also said to be rather glum people never smiling and predicting the worst. The sun was shining so we saw Aberdeen on a good day and I enjoyed the architecture. Aberdeen is the oil capital of Europe since the discovery of oil in the North Sea in the 1970’s.

We went down to the port and were wowed by the large supply ships that go out to the oil rigs. Their bows are huge but that is what is required in what can be some very large seas. Apparently it is very expensive for the container ships to come into the port so they dock outside and they have ferries bring the crew ashore or take supplies out. We saw a few ships parked up out on the coast.

We had lunch at a lovely little Chinese restaurant called Zen.

We then headed to Crathes Castle which is a 16th-century castle near Banchory in the Aberdeenshire region of Scotland. This harled castle was built by the Burnetts of Leys and was held in that family for almost 400 years. The castle and grounds are presently owned and managed by the National Trust for Scotland and are open to the public.

We went and had a look around the garden – it was fantastic. They also had some glasshouses which date back to 1896.

Crathes Castle is not to be confused with Crathie Kirk which is a small Church of Scotland parish church in the Scottish village of Crathie, best known for being the regular place of worship of the British Royal Family when they are holidaying at nearby Balmoral Castle.

We then headed back to Auchenblae. The country roads, terrain and villages in Scotland appeal to me – I know we are seeing the countryside in it’s best light with the sunshine but that little village and rural feel is great.

We had a great day out and feel very privileged to have been hosted by Nicholas & Veronica – you just can’t beat that local touch. We look forward to returning the favour in NZ sometime soon : )

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Panmure Golf Club – Scotland

On Thursday we drove down to Panmure which is about 45 minutes from Edzell out on the coast to play golf at the Panmure Golf Club. We were fortunate enough to be invited for a round by Jen’s (one of my besties back in NZ) cousin – David. Jen was born in Scotland but moved to NZ many years ago but she still has a number of relatives over here.

It was a glorious day and the Panmure Golf Course is lovely. I started off very well with a couple of pars but mid way round lost the plot a bit. Steve played very well and his short game was on fire. He reckons the greens were the best he has ever putted on – he wanted to bottle them up and take them home. I finished with a birdie so I’ll be back for the next round.

Panmure Golf Club is very near Carnoustie so we went to the Carnoustie Hotel for a bite of lunch. David’s wife Audrey joined us for lunch which was great. We sat out on the terrace which overlooks the 1st tee and 18th green on the Carnoustie Championship Course – you can imagine what was going through Steve’s mind. David & Audrey had their first visit to NZ in December / January 2014 and wondered why they had left it so long to visit. We hope to see them in NZ again in the not too distant future : )

Panmure Golf Club is a golf club in Barry, Angus, Scotland. It is one of the clubs that originally helped purchase the Amateur Championship trophy, and is one of the oldest golf clubs in the world, dating back to 1845. It is a private club that plays over the Barry Links, and is sometimes referred to as Barry or Panmure Barry. Due to its location next to Carnoustie it is often overlooked by visitors, and with the number of members limited to 500 it is one of the most underplayed courses in Scotland.

Although Panmure is a links course, it has some unusual features. The course is a mile or more from the sea, and many holes have beautiful trees which rarely come into play but create an unusual backdrop to the rolling links holes. The first and last three holes are fairly flat although still interesting, but the middle twelve holes are classic links holes. This is because the clubhouse had to be built near to a railway station, and the first and last three holes were needed to get to the land where the course was originally going to be built. It is also not a very long course at 6511 yards from the championship tees, but it proved to be the hardest final qualifying course for the 1999 Open Championship at Carnoustie. This is due to the well known barry rough that flanks every fairway, making accuracy from the tee essential.

Panmure is famous for being the place where Ben Hogan practised away from the attention of the media, prior to his only Open Championship appearance at Carnoustie in 1953. On the sixth hole he suggested that a bunker at the front right of the green would improve the hole, and one was subsequently created, known to this day as hogan’s bunker. Hogan spent much of his time hitting shots to the 17th green, and one day he asked that the green be cut shorter to better simulate the conditions at Carnoustie. The head greenkeeper handed him a mower, and Hogan cut the grass himself, even cleaning the mower before returning it!

Panmure also has one of the finest clubhouses in Scotland, modelled spiritually on the Royal Calcutta Golf Club. We didn’t go into the clubhouse but apparently woman are not allowed in the main area – they have a separate lounge. David said that there was a story that the men’s changing rooms are too close to the main clubhouse and they had very low windows. To prevent the ladies blushing in case they caught a glimpse of a man getting changed they were not permitted in that area.

Royal Calcutta Golf Club (RCGC) in Kolkata, India was established in 1829 and is the oldest golf club in India and the first outside Great Britain. It is the second-oldest golf club outside of Scotland. The oldest club outside Scotland is The Royal Blackheath in London, established in 1766. King George V and Queen Mary conferred the title “Royal” to the Club to commemorate their visit to Calcutta in 1911.

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Edzell Golf Club – Scotland

Today we had a round at the Edzell Golf Club with Sheila. The golf club is a five minute walk from the house and it is called the gem of Angus for good reason – it is a lovely course and all for GBP10 each: )

The weather was amazing and Sheila and Gus said that this is the best summer that they have had since the 70’s – long may it last. We went home after golf and dropped our gear off before returning to the clubhouse with Gus for a late lunch / early dinner. We sat ourselves in the sun afterwards and we all said “this temperature reminds us of Portugal”.

The original course was laid out in 1895 by Bob Simpson, a top golf course architect of his day. In 1933/34 the course was re-designed on recommendations made by the famous James Braid and remains virtually unchanged to this day. Today the course is situated in some 128 acres and has been complemented with the addition of the 9 hole West Water course in 2001.

Gus used to be a fanatical golfer but has taken to hiking and is out to conquer the Munro’s of Scotland. A Munro is a mountain in Scotland with a height over 3,000 ft (914.4 m). Munros are named after Sir Hugh Munro, 4th Baronet (1856–1919), who produced the first list of such hills, known as Munros Tables, in 1891. A Munro top is a summit that is not regarded as a separate mountain and which is over 3,000 feet. In the 2012 revision of the tables, published by the Scottish Mountaineering Club, there are 282 Munros and 227 further subsidiary tops. The best known Munro is Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in the British Isles. So far Gus has climbed 170 of these Munro’s.

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Just another Monday night in Edzell – Scotland

We arrived into Edinburgh airport on Monday morning from Dublin, picked up our rental car and headed north to Edzell in Angus. We are staying with Sheila and Gus who we met in Portugal earlier this year. We enjoyed a BBQ in Portugal with them and there friends Nicholas & Veronica so it was only fitting that we enjoyed a BBQ with all of them again on Monday night but this time it was in Scotland.

The weather when we landed into Edinburgh was grey and cool but again as we drove north the sun came out to play – blessed! It was a nice evening and Steve was back in his element cooking NZ lamb on the BBQ. We decided to open some red wine that Sheila and Gus had in their cellar – some of it dated back to the 80’s and 90’s and unfortunately it hadn’t stood the test of time. Steve was cheif bottle opener and six bottles later we had broken cork all over the table from the corked red wine he was opening. Luckily we had some younger reds on hand to help us along with our quiet Monday night in Edzell. It was so quiet in fact, Steve ended up asleep on the floor in the dining room!

Let the good times roll…..

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Killeen Castle Golf Club – Ireland

On Friday we drove from Cork to Dublin – we stopped at the Kildare Outlet Mall to check out the shops. No purchases were made as I have no room – the rules are – you buy something you have to throw something out : ( It was quite chilly and starting to rain – not boding well for the game of golf we had booked just north of Dublin at 12.30pm.

We arrived at Castle Killeen and low and behold the sun came out to play – we have been so lucky on our visit to Ireland. I had been prepared to break out the thermals and even the long trousers in Ireland but it hasn’t been necessary. We had the odd spit on a couple of courses but we never got wet : ) I truly am the SUNGRL!

Castle Killeen Golf Course is a Jack Nicklaus Signature Design 18 hole Championship golf course. The course hosted the 2011 Solheim Cup which is the equivalent of the Ryder Cup for the ladies. It also hosted the Irish Ladies Open in 2010 and 2011. It is set on a 600 acre estate in County Meath.

Again we were impressed with the natural beauty of the course. It was a true Jack Nicklaus course with lots of fairway bunkers. We both played fairly well and enjoyed the course. We caught up with a Canadian guy, Patrick, who was playing on his own. He had just finished playing the 14th and wandered off in the what he thought was the direction of the 15th. We yelled out to tell him he was going in the wrong direction. He was a nice guy and we joined him for the last four holes. He was over in Ireland for a month starring as an extra in the TV series Vikings – his friend was the producer.

Also set on the 600 acres is Killeen Castle itself – it is quite majestic playing golf with that as the back drop. Killeen Castle is the current construction on a site occupied by a castle since around 1180. The current building is a restoration of a largely 19th century construction, burnt out in 1981. Killeen was built as one of a pair of castles either side of a major roadway north, the other being the extant Dunsany Castle.

In 1978, the castle and estate were sold to advertiser Basil Brindley, who continued the stud farm operation. On 16 May 1981, the castle was burnt out in an arson attack, being left abandoned for many years. The lands and buildings were sold again in 1989, to Christopher Slattery, who initiated the current development plans.

In 1989, a new development plan was proposed, and later revised, with multiple applications for permission, including the conversion of the castle into a high-end hotel, the installation of a championship standard golf course and the construction of more than one hundred units of luxury housing on the estate. With successive modifications and discussions, plans were approved, with conditions to protect parts of the demesne landscape, and estate features, including a holy well. Work began in 2005.

In August 2006 it was announced that Killeen Castle would open in 2009 as a 179 room luxury golf and spa hotel under the Starwood Luxury Collection brand. However in early 2009, Starwood withdrew from the project after plans were scaled down by developers Snowbury following a downturn in the tourism and leisure industry.

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Cork – Ireland

We arrived into Cork on Tuesday evening after travelling from Galway and stopping off at the stunning Doonbeg Golf Course on the way. From the moment we arrived we liked what we saw – the city is compact, some of the buildings are colourfully painted and the city has a river running through it. Steve says “all cities with rivers are pretty” and I said “yes you’re probably right”. He then goes on to say “Wanganui is probably the exception”. A bit harsh on his hometown – apologies to those Wanagnuiites reading the blog : )

We were staying at The River Lee. Hotel which was right on the river – it is a very nice hotel. We had dinner at the hotel restaurant that night which was very nice.

After playing golf at the Cork Golf Club the next day I went into town to explore the city. Cork has some nice shops. It also has the English Market which is full of fresh produce, meat, cheeses, breads etc… The market is well supported locally and has become a tourist attraction – drawing visitors from throughout the world, including a visit by Queen Elizabeth II during her 2011 state visit. The term English Market was coined in the 19th Century to distinguish the market from the nearby St. Peter’s Market which was known as the Irish Market.

I have also been impressed with the health food and organic shops in Ireland. There was a great one in Galway and I found one in Cork called Quay Co-op which had a whole food and organic market as well as a vegetarian restaurant next door. I have moved on from exploring supermarkets – I am now into exploring health food shops. Getting sadder by the minute according to Steve! I had lunch at the vegetarian restaurant by myself on Thursday and it was awesome. Quay Co-op has been an institution in Cork since 1982.

On the Wednesday night we went to Market Lane for dinner – this restaurant was ranked number one on Trip Advisor and we saw why. The food was fantastic as was the service. Our waitress was from the Ukraine but she had been in Ireland for the past 10 years – she is marrying an Irish lad in the not too distant future “if he keeps behaving himself” she added : ) I had the vegetarian moussaka – it was divine and huge – I couldn’t even eat it all – I think that might be a first for me – I never leave food behind!

I also checked out Saint Fin Barre’s Cathedral, a cathedral of the Church of Ireland. Construction of this cathedral started in 1863.

I have saved the best bit of Cork until last – we caught up with an old primary and intermediate school friend of mine, David Pomeroy. He has made Cork his home for the past 20 years although he misses NZ every day. David married an Irish girl Olga and has two lovely children – Sophie who is 8 and Darragh who is 6. We worked out we hadn’t seen each other for about 25 years although with Facebook these days you do feel somewhat up to date and connected. Dave picked us up from the hotel and we went back to his place for a good old Kiwi / Irish BBQ. It was great reminiscing about the ‘good old days’ and old friends who remain friends to this day.

A little bit about Cork…
Cork is a city in Ireland. It is located in the South-West Region and in the province of Munster. With a population of 119,230, it is the second largest city in the state and the third most populous on the island of Ireland.

The city is built on the River Lee which divides into two channels at the western end of the city. The city centre is located on the island created by the channels. At the eastern end of the city centre where the channels re-converge, quays and docks along the river banks lead to Lough Mahon and Cork Harbour, which is one of the world’s largest natural harbours.

Cork City is at the heart of industry in the south of Ireland. Its main area of industry is pharmaceuticals, with Pfizer Inc. and Swiss company Novartis being big employers in the region. The most famous product of the Cork pharmaceutical industry is Viagra. Cork is also the European headquarters of Apple Inc. where over 3,000 staff are involved in manufacturing, R&D and customer support. Logitech and EMC Corporation are also important IT employers in the area.

The city is also home to the Heineken Brewery that brews Murphy’s Irish Stout and the nearby Beamish and Crawford brewery (taken over by Heineken in 2008) which have been in the city for generations. And for many years, Cork was the home to Ford Motor Company, which manufactured cars in the docklands area before the plant was closed in 1984. Henry Ford’s grandfather was from West Cork, which was one of the main reasons for opening up the manufacturing facility in Cork. But technology has replaced the old manufacturing businesses of the 1970s and 1980s, with people now working in the many I.T. centres of the city – such as Amazon.com, the online retailer, which has set up in Cork Airport Business Park.

Cork’s deep harbour allows ships of any size to enter, bringing trade and easy import/export of products. Cork Airport also allows easy access to continental Europe and Cork Kent railway station in the city centre provides good rail links for domestic trade.

Cork is an important educational centre in Ireland. University College Cork (UCC), a constituent university of the National University of Ireland, offers a wide variety of courses in Arts, Commerce, Engineering, Law, Medicine and Science.

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Killarney Golf & Fishing Club – Killeen Course – Ireland

Today we travelled about an hour and a half north west of Cork to Killarney. Our destination was the Killarney Golf & Fishing Club which is a private golf club on the shore of Lough Leane just west of Killarney, County Kerry, Ireland. The club has three 18-hole golf courses, Killeen, Lackabane and Mahony’s Point.

The Killeen Course measures 7,031 yards and plays to a par of 72. It has been the venue for the European Tour’s Irish Open in 1991, 1992, 2010 and 2011.

Killeen was a pretty course and again the natural beauty surrounding these Irish courses is great. My golf was back on track today so the I hate golf, I hate golf mantra is now back to I love golf much to Steve’s delight!

There were some rather large animal deposits on the course which we were wondering which animal they belonged to. The bunkers on the 14th hole were covered in deer hoof prints so we worked out who the culprits were! The black ravens were also very prevalent on the course and they aren’t too bothered by you or your golf ball. They were busy digging up the fairways with their beaks looking for food. Natural coring machines?

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Cork Golf Club – Ireland

On Wednesday we woke to another lovely day in Ireland. After a bit of an explore around the city we went out to the Cork Golf Club.

Cork Golf Club is located at Little Island close to Cork City, this championship golf course is routed through exceptional golfing terrain, incorporating an old limestone quarry and the inner reaches of Cork Harbour and Lough Mahon. The course was founded in 1888. In 1927 the course was redesigned by the Augusta National designer, Alister MacKenzie.

Seves Ballesteros visited the course in 1983 and hit a 332 metre drive on one of the holes. Steve said that would have been a quite a feat back then given he would have been using wooden clubs not the titanium clubs we use these days. The club planted a Spanish chestnut tree in his honour.

It was a lovely course and after the daunting holes at Doonbeg it looked like a walk in the park – that’s where I went wrong! High expectations were followed by poor play on my part! Not the best day in the office to date but hey I am not complaining – I was out enjoying the Irish sunshine for yet another day.

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Doonbeg Golf Club – Ireland

We left Galway this morning and headed to Doonbeg Golf Club which is out on the coast in County Clare. The weather was overcast and as we got closer to the coast it started to blow and we had a bit of rain. It was spitting as we got our golf clubs ready but I had a word with the weather gods and told them if they knew what was good for them they would stop that behaviour immediately!

Standing up on the first tee is pretty WOW. Out to your left you have the Atlantic Ocean and the first hole is a long par 5 that is framed by hills on both sides – it looks like a sports stadium. It was still pretty windy as we teed off but when you got down into the stadium you were quite sheltered. The next few holes were quite daunting as you couldn’t really see where you were supposed to be hitting. Needless to say the ball stocks were being depleted rather quickly and not by me I might add : )

The first nine holes go out along the coast and the second come back inland. We were just teeing off on the third when this woman walked towards us heading for the 16th. I thought ‘she looks familiar’ but thought no it can’t be. We said hello and she asked if she was going in the right direction for the next hole, all the while we were all looking at each other thinking we were familiar. It turns out it was our Canadian friend Trish who we know through an ex Manukau Golf Club member that Steve met at the World Junior’s in San Diego. Her and James run golf tours all around the world so she was out checking out the lodge and course. It turns out James is also in Ireland with a tour group playing all the great golf courses Ireland has to offer. What a coincidence – if we had been 5 minutes earlier or later we would have missed seeing each other. It was great to see her and catch up on the news.

We carried on our merry way – well actually not so merry as the weather wasn’t playing ball and the ball stocks were still being depleted! My talking to the weather gods was answered about the 8th hole and the sun came out to play. It was still quite windy though – I think that is just a natural state for this coast. The golf on the back nine was much improved with Steve having a couple of birdies and managing to keep his ball stocks in check. I only lost one ball all day : )

It is a stunning course and one that would be good to play again so you knew where you were going. The course was designed by Greg Norman and opened in 2002. The geography was hardly changed as the course was fitted into the natural environment.

Apparently there was a big storm in January this year and the area was badly damaged. The course and lodge went into liquidation and in February 2014 they were bought by Donald Trump for an estimated €15m. The Lodge at Doonbeg, which consists of 218 hotel suites, an expansive spa and several restaurants will be managed by the Trump Hotel Collection.

After golf we caught up with Trish again in the carpark before heading to Cork – our home for the next three days. It took about 2.5 hours to get here and as we drove through the city I thought I am going to like this place. It has a completely different look to Galway. We are staying at The River Lee Hotel which is really nice.

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Galway Bay Golf Club – Ireland

Today we played at the Galway Bay Golf Club. This course was designed by former Ryder Cup and World Cup legend Christy O Connor Junior. Set on 300 acres it superbly blends the stunning backdrop of Galway Bay and the rugged curves of the Atlantic Coastline. It was a challenging course and again we were impressed with the natural surrounds.

The greens were super slick so the pars and birdies were not forthcoming today for Stevie : ( On the ball count front Steve was down net 2 (lost 3 and found 1) and I was down 1. Steve went to great lengths to find his ball as you can see from the pictures below – we could see two balls in this prickly mass but only one was reachable much to Steve’s disgust! It is amazing what motivates some people : )

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